In Aspen The Mountains Are Always Calling

MTN Town Magazine Best Mountain Towns, Best Restaurants in Colorado, EAT + DRINK, Skiing & Snowboarding 0

ASPEN - Aspen Gondolas photo credit Tamara Susa 25-26_ASCOnMountain_19

With Four Mountains, a Gorgeous Town, Exceptional Shopping and Splurge Worthy Dining Aspen is calling to you

By Jillian Livingston

“The mountains are calling and I must go.” John Muir may not have had Aspen in mind when he wrote those words, but they certainly ring true for those of us who have gravitated here. With four iconic peaks that tug at us daily to push ourselves, we are grateful to have these legendary mountains included in our ski pass.

Aspen’s four mountains each have its own personality:

Aspen Mountain, or Ajax to those of us who’ve been here forever, offers intermediate and black diamond runs and the newly celebrated Hero’s Zone that the locals will forever call by the original name, Pandora’s.

If you are looking for snowbunnies, just look for the orange glasses – they seem to go wherever the Veuve is, whether it be at the top of the mountain at The Sundeck, lounging outside at the exclusive AspenX with a DJ spinning, or in the sunshine at the bottom at Ajax Tavern.

Aspen Highlands is the local’s mountain with most of the runs classified as expert, their steepest pitches ranging from 38 to 48 degrees, making for some of the steepest descents in Colorado. Hiking 782 vertical feet up Aspen Highlands Bowl, topping out at 12,392 feet, always feels a bit brutal, especially that first hike of the season, but when the bowl calls, as it often does, we hang our “Shop Closed” sign and go.

Buttermilk is considered our gentlest mountain where one goes to learn to ski, snowboard or telemark. It’s also a popular mountain to skin up where you’ll find foreigners out on the most freezing of days, happily bombing down the mountain in a pizza wedge.

Snowmass is considered more of a family mountain, but still offers excellent steep terrain in the High Alpine and Cirque areas. My father who skied until he was 80 loved Long Shot, a 5.3-mile-long, intermediate-level trail that starts from a short hike above the Elk Camp lift and is considered the longest continuous run in Colorado.

Earning Local Status

I wasn’t one of those who came for the winter and stayed for the summer. I came here from New York City with a broken heart. When I first arrived with puffy eyes and a bag full of aerobic clothes, I scoffed at the constant chatter of everyone’s latest physical accomplishments, but rather than allowing me to mope, my sister, who is the one who convinced me to come out here, made it her mission to drag me up mountains where I would be dry heaving as sculpted athletes passed me carrying logs on their shoulders for extra weight. The mountains beat me up while also healing me. It took me a while, but I eventually too became an uphill addict, and fell in love with the mountains, and a Colorado mountain man. Thirty-five years and three sons later I believe I’ve earned my “local” badge. In that time I have watched Aspen change with homes sky rocketing in price affordable only to super-billionaires, and affordable housing becoming less and less available for our service workers. For a family of five, ski passes can cost more than some used cars, but what we came here for still exists with Aspen Mountain spilling into the center of town and we scrappy locals figure out ways to live without breaking the bank.

Not everyone buys their pass outright. Some earn it. Highlands’ bootpacking program includes fifteen days of avalanche-zone hiking for a Premier Pass. It’s not for the faint of heart, think early season conditions, mountaineering-level effort, unpredictable weather, and sore everything. But bragging rights? Immeasurable. Or we apply to be Aspen Snowmass ambassadors where the criteria includes being an expert on the slopes and good with people, plus having local knowledge of the ski areas. In exchange, you’ll get a pass, plus first tracks and the ability to meet people from all over the world.

Each season physically prepares us for the next and we are grateful that our ski company has long supported uphill access all year long. We also have our extreme races to train for, like the Golden Leaf Half Marathon, the Audi Power of Four: 24 grueling miles with over 10,000 ‘ vert that traverses all four Aspen Snowmass mountains, and the Summit for Life, Chris Klug’s Foundation nighttime race up Aspen mountain to raise awareness for lifesaving eye, tissue and organ donations. More manageable training for those of us who aren’t so uber, In the summer we bike the 23-mile Snowmass Loop, or hike the 8.8-mile Lost Man Loop, or trek the 11 miles from Aspen to Crested Butte through wildflower fields on trails that stay pristine thanks to Roaring Fork Volunteers and the RFMBA.

Four Mountains, Each With Their Own Personality

Aspen Highlands

Being Aspen’s most extreme mountain, it’s only fitting that the marquee restaurant has an extreme side. Cloud 9 is legendary, but the vibe depends entirely on which seating you book. The early seating delivers a Euro-style dining experience in a rustic cabin with magnificent views perched at 10,000 feet. The menu features fondue, raclette, steak tartare, caviar, and crab claws. Cozy, civilized, and photo-perfect.

The late seating? That’s when Aspen slips into something far less…buttoned up. Veuve turns into a weapon with a bubble blaster, and suddenly you’re in a sweaty disco sauna where pecs, cleavage, and glutes all glisten under a haze of champagne spray. Think St. Tropez meets spring break on skis. (Fun fact: Cloud 9 reportedly buys more Veuve Clicquot than anywhere else in the U.S.)

A favorite local pastime is to drink beers in the sunshine at Highlands Alehouse and watch the post-party fall out as guests unload from the snowcat back at the base of the mountain. Prefer not to star in that show? Opt for one of Cloud 9’s snowcat dinners where you can keep your dignity intact.

Snowmass

For a quieter, more elegant experience, take the Alpine Springs lift to The Alpin Room, where Alsatian-inspired French, Swiss, and Austrian fare is served in a refined dining room with sweeping mountain views. Craving something heartier? Ride up The Village Express to Sam’s (formerly Sam’s Smokehouse) for Italian-American dining in a room surrounded by windows and 10 top tables. For a more rustic-style, High Alpine delivers comfort food and panoramic views, while The Cabin, formerly Lynn Britt Cabin, recently renovated and expanded in 2024, offers elevated mountain dining with charm.

Aspen Mountain

Take the gondola up to The Sundeck for a casual, café-style lunch with unbeatable vistas and live music often playing. Insider tip: look for the “locals’ soup sticker,” which scores you delicious mountain soups paired with a Mountain Time beer. Even better, find a friend with access to the Aspen Mountain Club, you’ll be treated to lunch in a stunning sun-filled dining room or on their private patio. Be prepared to meet all the local celeb characters in the locker room where you can swap your ski boots out for plush slippers.

If you’re lucky, your friend will invite you to join First Tracks, a members’ perk that grants gondola access an hour before the public, letting you carve fresh corduroy in the crisp Colorado dawn.

For a true local breakfast, ski to Bonnie’s for their cult-favorite oatmeal pancakes. This 1960s family-run cabin boasts a two-tiered deck with killer views, and the only way in is on boards. If you spot Bridget, the longtime owner, tell her we sent you.

Buttermilk

For a special evening, skin, hike, or snowshoe up with the locals to The Cliffhouse for their full moon Mongolian BBQ dinners. Don’t forget your headlamp, you’ll be heading down under starlit skies, or clouds and snow, after all, it is the mountains and one never knows what they’ll get for weather.

Restaurants in Aspen

Mountain Restaurants

If you’re hunting for snug, fire lit lodges to curl up in slope-side, Aspen doesn’t offer quite as many as you’d imagine. What we do have is ample on-mountain restaurants with views.

Restaurants in Town

Yes, Aspen’s sky-high rent prices hit restaurants hard, and a few beloved local haunts are gone. Still, there are gems worth splurging for, or sharing plates if you’re keeping an eye on the bill.

Bear Den Aspen

A charming Victorian cottage on “restaurant row,” serving French-inspired comfort food for lunch or dinner. Also, brunch is served daily and Aperol Spritz cocktails arrive in goblet-sized glasses. www.beardenaspen.com

Bosq

Chef Barclay Dodge forages locally and transforms his finds into inventive, unforgettable plates at this Michelin Guide One Star Restaurant three years in a row. www.bosqaspen.com

Clark’s

Not locally owned, but still a favorite for a great atmosphere, oysters and people-watching. Grab a solo seat at the bar, order a dozen, and see who sits down next to you. www.jimotoaspen.com

Home Team BBQ

This is where you’ll find your fireplace and some of the best smoked chicken wings with Alabama white sauce this side of Colorado. A favorite “hip family-style restaurant” located inside (and outside) the Inn at Aspen at the base of Buttermilk, with family style booths at handcrafted wooden tables. If you’re looking to watch your favorite sport’s game sidle up to their 25-seated bar and watch your game on their many large screen televisions while drinking their infamous Gamechanger, a deliciously dangerous frozen drink made with Caribbean gold rum, spiced rum, fresh orange juice, pineapple juice, and cream of coconut, blended with ice and topped with fresh grated nutmeg. Get the rum floater on top to add that extra punch you need to get you riled and rowdy. Serving breakfast, lunch and dinner. www.hometeambbq.com

Jimoto

Downtown Aspen’s go-to for comforting ramen, craveable poke bowls, and soup dumplings.

Mawa’s Kitchen

Located in the Aspen Airport Business Center, Mawa’s Kitchen is not only a MICHELIN Guide Recommended flagship restaurant, owner and executive chef Mawa McQueen is a James Beard Award semifinalist nominee and 2020 & 2022 Colorado Governor’s Minority Business Award Winner. Tip: I’ve always wanted to throw a party in her bar. www.mawaskitchen.com

PARC Aspen

Upscale and innovative, with locally-sourced ingredients, creative techniques, and an award-winning wine program. Tip: the bar area is a super fun, local spot. www.parcaspen.com

Pine Creek Cookhouse

For an alpine fairytale, cross-country ski or take a horse-drawn sleigh to this mountain lodge at the end of Castle Creek Road. Expect wild game, fresh fish, and organic, locally-sourced fare with views of Elk Mountain. Tip: If you’re tentative on cross country skis, take the sleigh, and say hello to the Wilcox’s for me – I love them. www.pinecreekcookhouse.com

Toro Snowmass by Chef Richard Sandoval

Located inside Viceroy Snowmass, this restaurant is an experience with views and Latin-inspired flavors, plus an extensive wine list. Their menu includes Sweet Corn Empanadas, perfectly crispy and filled with sweet, flavorful corn, Lobster Won Ton Tacos, with sushi rice & mango chalaquita, and their Toro Bison Burger, crafted with morita bacon jam, garlic crema, provolone, housemade pickles & fries. Also open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Tip: Include the three tiered hot tub visit après-dinner, or better yet, book a room. www.torosnowmass.com

Wild Fig

One of CP Restaurant Group’s first restaurant’s now of many, Wild Fig offers Mediterranean cuisine in a European Brasserie atmosphere in Aspen, and soon to be in Willits as well. Their burrata and prosciutto with fresh figs is a favorite as is their 8 oz Filet Mignon with wild fig frites, cognac green peppercorn demi and their Fish in a Bag with roasted campari tomatoes. www.thewildfig. com

Aurum Food & Wine Aspen Snowmass

Postioned in the heart of Snowmass Base Village slopeside dining, an outdoor patio with fire pit features, spectacular intimate dining room with seasonal New American cuisine to match makes the perfect spot for Après or Dinner. www.aurumaspensnowmass.com

Shopping in Aspen

For sure you will find the staple high-end luxury stores in Aspen, but there still are some locally owned favorites like Jill Murphy’s Misstyx, or Kimberly Wilson Jarrell’s Duchess and the Dude where you can find the latest fashions at reasonable prices or be in the know of the local sales to find the best mountain fashion at Pitkin County Dry Goods, Gorsuch, Hamilton Sports, and Performance Ski.

There’s also the thrift stores where if you hit it right at The Aspen Thrift Store, Susie’s or Little Bird, you’ll be styling alongside those with deeper pockets.

Aspen Lodging

The Limelight Aspen & The Limelight Snowmass – www.limelighthotels.com

The St. Regis – www.marriott.com/en-us/hotels/asexr-the-st-regis-aspen-resort/overview/

The Little Nell – www.thelittlenell.com

W Aspen – www.marriott.com/en-us/hotels/asewh-w-aspen/overview/

The Hotel Jerome – www.auberge.com/hotel-jerome/

Locals make it work, because that’s the Aspen way, we gripe, we adapt, and then we head back into the mountains. Because no matter what, the mountains always call. And we all always answer.

Featured Image – Tamara Susa, AspenSnowmass; Ski Area Images- AspenSnowmass

Resources:

Aspen Real Life: www.aspenreallife.com

Aspen Chamber of Commerce: www.aspenchamber.org

AspenSnowmass: www.aspensnowmass.com

About the Author

Photo by Michele Cardamone Photography

Jillian Livingston is a travel writer, blogger and connector known for promoting local businesses and bringing professionals together. She began her career in publishing with Simon & Schuster in New York City before trading skyscrapers for the Rockies, where she worked as a production manager in film.

In 2009 she launched AspenRealLife.com, a travel blog and destination media platform highlighting the characters, stories, and adventures from her travels both in her backyard and abroad. In 2018 she started AspenBusinessConnect.com, a curated professional directory and networking community that continues to unite local entrepreneurs, creatives, and leaders: aspenbusinessconnect.com

When she’s not creating content or hosting events, you’ll find her hiking, mountain biking and skiing, often with her three boys and hubbie, or swapping stories with locals over a glass of Italian wine, or a shot of El Bandido Yankee tequila.

Aspen, Aspen Restaurants, Buttermilk, Dine Local Guide, Snowmass